Hindu Kush & Karakorum Pakistan

We will catch a scenic flight over the heart of the Hindu Kush to the remote Chitral valley. Chitral is cut off from the rest of Pakistan for six months of the year and therefore feels very different from the Punjabi plains of Islamabad.
The afternoon in Chitral can be spent visiting the red brick fort, the local bazaar, and the Shahi Mosque. Over its three domes and double minarets, the snow-capped peaks of the distant mountains create a particularly evocative image on a clear day.
Overnight at a simple hotel in Chitral.
(If the flight is delayed then we will take a twelve-hour drive to Chitral).

We will spend three days visiting Rumbour and Bumboret valleys, staying in locally owned guesthouses, eating local foods, and savouring the locally made wine. The days will be spent relaxing, walking, or jeeping to the Kalasha villages of these isolated valleys.
The Kalash people are known as “wearers of the black robe”, referring to the richly embroidered black clothing traditionally worn by women. Their fascinating animistic spiritual beliefs are unique to the area and date back to pre-Zoroastrian and Vedic Indo-Iranian origins. We will visit the Kalasha Dur Museum, which was founded by the “Greek Volunteers” in 2001 with the aim of preserving traditional Kalasha objects for future generations and visitors. The Greek connection is also important because the Kalash regard themselves as descendants of Alexander the Great’s soldiers, which resulted in their ethnoreligious and linguistic isolation from the rest of the region. The religious sites, and particularly the graveyards of the Kalash, are of further interest. The wooden coffins are traditionally left aboveground and ornamented with beautiful carvings, though this practice is slowly dying out due to its expense. We will ensure that the accommodation is with Kalasha families, so you get a chance to immerse yourself and learn first-hand about the unique culture of this community.
Overnight in Chitral or the Kalasha valleys. Note that the Kalasha homestay accommodation at this stage in the trip is very basic, but all meals will be provided.

The road between Chitral and Gilgit crosses through the Hindu Kush, and as the mountains get bigger, the road condition deteriorates. We take three days to make the journey, but the slower pace allows for plenty of time to enjoy the incredible scenery. The first night, we break the journey in Mastuj, a collection of smallholdings linked by winding lanes, and the perfect place to do nothing except drink in the views.
Overnight in a simple hotel in Mastuj.

We continue our drive through the Hindu Kush, crossing the three thousand, seven hundred metre Shandur Pass, home to the world’s highest polo ground. The men of this region are famed for their skill in polo and excellent horsemanship. Stonewalled polo arenas with tiered seating can be found scattered among the fertile valleys and rich pine forests. In the afternoon, we break the journey at Phandur to relax by the lake, an important freshwater source and a local spot for trout fishing.
Overnight in a simple hotel in Phandur.

We join the famous Karakorum Highway at Gilgit, where we will also stop for lunch, before heading to the fabled Hunza valley. The epic natural beauty of this drive is something that will stay with you for life and even the wonders of modern photography are unable to fully capture the sheer scale and atmosphere of the landscape. The Rakaposhi Viewpoint is a particularly beautiful stopping place, offering a view of the Ghulmet glacier and an opportunity to stretch your legs by the tumbling river of melting ice water.
For some history, we will pause six miles out of Gilgit to see the seventh-century Kargah Buddha rock carving, a remnant of the area’s past as a Buddhist centre. The enormous carving has been co-opted into local Islamic tradition, now supposedly the body of a man-eating giantess who was pinned to the rock by a Sufi holy man.
It’s hard to miss the elaborately embellished “jingle” trucks on the road, decorated with motifs and images reflecting social and political trends, local artistic styles, and sometimes utilising popular religious iconography. These trucks are great sources of pride for both owners and decorators and have become an artistic phenomenon in Pakistan as well as a valuable cultural export. We will use Hunza as a base for exploring the surrounding area.
Overnight at three-star equivalent hotel in Hunza.

We have three days of exciting trips planned in Hunza. However, you may want to do nothing more than sit under an apricot tree, watch the mountains, and read a book. The apricots are a particular feature of this area and are prominent in the Hunza cuisine. The local speciality “Bataring Daudo” (Apricot soup) is somewhat of an acquired taste since the dried apricots give an intense toffee-like flavour to dishes.
On the first day, we will pass the newly formed Attabad Lake on the road to Passu. The thirty-kilometre- long lake was formed in 2010 after a massive landslide dammed the mighty Indus river. On the second day, we will visit the eighth and eleventh-century forts of Baltit and Altit, which were the traditional residences of the “Mirs” (rulers) of Hunza. We will also travel to the Eagle’s Nest Viewpoint for stunning views of the surrounding rust-coloured mountains and distant snowy peaks. On the final day, those feeling fit can walk on the high irrigation channels cut into the rock, giving an insight into how the people of Hunza created this Shangri-La. Whether eternal youth is gained from the predominantly vegetarian diet, the incredible air quality, or the celestial natural beauty, the area has fascinated physicians and travellers for centuries.
Overnight at three-star equivalent hotel in Hunza.

A long day’s drive from Hunza to Naran. The first section will be on the Karakorum Highway where we pass the point where the Karakorum, Hindukush, and Himalayas meet. After passing between these three great mountain ranges, we leave the Karakorum Highway and cross the four thousand-metre-high Babasur Pass, before breaking our journey in Naran in the Kaghan Valley.
Overnight in simple hotel Naran. Note that if the Babasur Pass is not yet open for the season, we will drive the Karakorum highway via Besham.

Another day spent enjoying the scenery of the Kaghan Valley and driving the final section of the Karakorum highway. We will arrive back in Islamabad early enough for a final meal together.
Overnight in guesthouse in Islamabad.
(Note that if the Babasur Pass is closed we will drive from Besham to Islamabad via the Karakorum Highway).

Transfer to airport and fly home.