A peculiar and inward-looking country known as the ‘North Korea of Central Asia’, modern Turkmenistan is alluring in its eccentricity. It is little known internationally, being rarely spoken about in the media. Having been at the crossroads of civilisations for centuries and an important trading point along the Silk Road network, there are a pleasingly large number of sites to discover inside this country as well as the chance to explore the engulfing desert of the Kara Kum.
The southern brother of Uzbekistan’s Kyzyl Kum Desert, the Kara Kum (“Black Sands”), covers 70% of Turkmenistan. It remains sparsely populated and there are considerable swathes of the interior that have likely never been explored except by the nomadic Turkmen. A true wilderness.
Sandwiched between the Kopet Dag mountains range and the Kara Kum, Ashgabat is the largest city and capital of Turkmenistan. Given its grand, Soviet-style architecture it makes for an incomparably unique city in appearance. Gleaming, spotless white street bake under the desert sun. Sites of interest include the Independence Monument, National Museum of History and the rocket-ship like Neutrality Monument.
Sometimes called the ‘Door to Hell’, you may well have seen the images of explorer George Kourounis dangling above the middle of this flaming pit. Located in the isolated centre of the Kara Kum desert, the stark locality has starkly empty wilderness views to add to a trip. As a true oddity on the world’s landscape, it is not to be missed.
Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Merv was once a major oasis city in Central Asia, important from the age of Alexander the Great to that of Genghis Khan. It may have been the largest city in the world in the 12th Century. As a result, there are a considerable number of ancient sites to see here ranging from Bronze and Iron Age Settlements; the Erk, Giaur and Sultan Fortresses, and numerous mosques and bazaars. The modern city of Mary (whose name derives from Merv) is a cultural centre with a museum for the region and has hosted the world’s largest yurt.
Nearly 2000 years ago Konye Urgench established itself as an important trade town along the northern section of the Silk Road which leads to the Caspian Sea. For a time it was an imperial capital until a series of disasters consigned it to provincial obscurity. There are fortresses, mosques, ruins of the ancient caravanserai and dozens of mausoleums, a legacy of its historic importance in the Islamic world.
The far west of Turkmenistan is mostly known for the extensive oil fields, which makes this unearthly natural phenomenon an extraordinary place to visit. 20 km of wind carved landscape, with layered coral-like rocks in pinks, reds, and oranges. This remote spot is well worth the sidetrip to view the “jaws of the crocodile”.
Most travellers visiting Turkmenistan require a visa before travel.
Turkmenistan is one of the more bureaucratic countries to visit in Asia and tourism visas usually require an approved Letter of Invitation (LOI). For tourist visits, these letters are normally arranged through a travel agency or local sponsor, which Untamed Borders can arrange.
The LOI is processed by the State Migration Services, and takes up to 3 weeks to be processed. If it is approved, you can then pick-up your visa on arrival in the country. There are two visa options, one for up to 10 days duration and one for 10-20 days duration. Prices vary between the two options.
In theory you could get your LOI processed and then pick-up your visa from an embassy, but in practice most guests use the visa on arrival system.
Turkmenistan’s entry requirements can change, so for the latest advice on visas, LOIs and permissions, please contact our team at info@untamedborders.com.
Turkmenistan is much more restricted than many countries and is the most restricted former-Soviet Central Asian state.
Most visitors travel on a pre-arranged itinerary with a licensed tour guide, confirmed accommodation and transport. This is partly because of the visa process, which usually depends on a sponsor or travel agency, and partly because some areas require permissions or checkpoints en route.
This doesn’t mean that travel in Turkmenistan feels overly controlled at every moment, but it does mean that visitors should expect more structure than in many other countries. Itineraries, hotels and border crossings need to be planned carefully in advance, and changes at short notice may not always be possible.
For travellers used to independent backpacking, Turkmenistan can feel unusual. For those interested in unusual architecture, Silk Road archaeology, desert landscapes and Soviet-era history, the structure is often worth it.
Turkmenistan has an extreme desert climate. Much of the country is covered by the Karakum Desert and temperatures can vary dramatically between seasons. Spring and autumn are generally the best times to visit, while the height of summer is usually a time to avoid because of extreme heat.
Spring — March to May
Spring is one of the best times to visit Turkmenistan.
Temperatures are generally warm, but manageable for exploring Ashgabat, Ancient Merv, Nisa, the Caspian Sea coast and Konye-Urgench.
The Karakum Desert remains hot, particularly into May, but not with quite the same ferocity as mid-summer.
It’s also a good time to visit the highlands in Turkmenistan, that have much more greenery than they do later in the year.
We time some of our group trips to Turkmenistan to run around this time of year, to make the most of the favourable conditions.
Summer — June to September
Summer is usually the least comfortable time to visit Turkmenistan.
The country can become extremely hot, particularly in the desert and lowland regions. Temperatures in parts of Turkmenistan can exceed 40°C and occasionally rise much much higher.
Ashgabat can also be very hot in summer, with the city’s marble architecture and broad avenues reflecting the heat. If travel during this period is unavoidable, itineraries should be planned carefully around early starts, shaded breaks and air-conditioned transport.
The Caspian coast around Turkmenbashi can be milder than the interior, but summer is still not the best season for most cultural or desert-focused trips. We advise guests to choose other times of year to visit the country, where possible.
Autumn — September to November
Autumn is another great time of year to visit Turkmenistan - the intense heat of the summer has eased and, like Spring, it remains warm, but manageable to explore the country’s awesome historic sites and range of landscapes.
Not long after the Autumn, the country’s weather system shifts and this is a good time to stay out in desert landscapes before the winter temperatures plunge.
It’s one of the overall best seasons to visit the Darvaza Gas Crater, Yangykala Canyon and the archaeological sites of eastern Turkmenistan. We time one of our annual Turkmenistan group tours to the country to depart at this time of year.
Winter — December to February
Winter can be cold in Turkmenistan, especially in the desert and northern parts of the country.
Ashgabat and the main historical sites remain visitable, but travellers should bring warm clothing. Desert nights can be very cold, and camping at Darvaza in winter requires proper layers.
Winter can be a rewarding time for travellers who prefer quieter sites, but the Spring & Autumn are more well rounded overall for visiting Turkmenistan.
Most travellers arrive by air into Ashgabat International Airport, the country’s main gateway.
Turkmenistan Airlines operates international routes from Ashgabat to a number of major hubs including London, Istanbul, Dubai, Frankfurt, Milan, Delhi, Beijing, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur, although schedules can change.
Depending on the itinerary, travellers sometimes use domestic flights between Ashgabat and regional cities such as Dashoguz, Turkmenabat, Mary or Turkmenbashi.. These flights can be useful because distances in Turkmenistan are large, roads are long, and many of the country’s main sights are spread across different regions.
Overland entry is possible from some neighbouring countries, but it requires careful planning, correct visa support and confirmation that the relevant border crossing is operating for foreign visitors. Turkmenistan’s land borders can close at short notice, and the borders with Afghanistan and Iran are particularly sensitive.
Turkmenistan — Uzbekistan
This is the most common and practical overland route for travellers.
The Uzbekistan border is often used by visitors combining Turkmenistan with Khiva, Bukhara or Nukus. The Shavat–Dashoguz crossing is useful for Khiva and Dashoguz, while Farap–Alat is the logical route between Bukhara and Turkmenabat/Mary/Merv. Hojayli–Konye-Urgench can also be relevant for travellers coming from western Uzbekistan.
This is the most straightforward overland pairing for many Turkmenistan itineraries, but travellers still need the correct visa, LOI, permissions and guide arrangements.
Turkmenistan — Iran
Overland travel between Turkmenistan and Iran has historically been possible, particularly via crossings such as Gaudan–Bajgiran and Sarakhs, which are useful for routes involving Mashhad and Ashgabat. However, this border can be affected by regional tensions and administrative changes.
Untamed Borders can assist with overland crossings between Turkmenistan and Iran, for more details, please email - info@untamedborders.com.
Turkmenistan — Kazakhstan
The Kazakhstan route is remote and less commonly used by tourists.
The main crossing is in the far west, linking the Turkmenbashi/Garabogaz area with western Kazakhstan. It can be useful for overland travellers crossing the Caspian region, but distances are long and infrastructure is more limited than on the Uzbekistan route.
This crossing is not usually the first choice for standard Turkmenistan itineraries, but it can be possible with the right paperwork and planning.
Turkmenistan — Afghanistan
There are crossings in the direction of Herat in Afghanistan and it’s possible for international visitors to cross.
Untamed Borders times its trips, so guests can join the Afghanistan In 10-days group trip, then cross the border into Turkmenistan, to begin the Turkmenistan group trip - rekindling the spirit of the ancient Silk Road.
This border opening can be subject to change, depending on regional tensions - for the latest information please email - info@untamedborders.com
Turkmenistan — Azerbaijan via the Caspian Sea
Turkmenistan has a Caspian Sea port at Turkmenbashi and cargo vessels link Turkmenistan with Baku in Azerbaijan.
This can be an adventurous route, but it is unpredictable and not like a normal scheduled passenger ferry. Departures can be irregular, waiting times can be long and visa timing needs to be carefully managed. It is more suitable for flexible overland travellers than for guests on a fixed-date trip.
Turkmenistan is generally a low-crime country for visitors, but it is also a tightly controlled state with rules that travellers need to understand.
The main risks for tourists are not usually street crime, but bureaucracy, restricted areas, photography rules, border closures, road travel and the need to avoid political discussion or behaviour that could attract unwanted attention.
Travellers should be careful when taking photographs, especially near airports, government buildings, police stations, military sites, markets, embassies and official monuments. Always ask your guide if you’re unsure. The Turkmen authorities can also take a serious view of negative social media comments or political discussions.
Road journeys outside cities can be long, and night driving is best avoided where possible. Travel near borders, particularly with Afghanistan and Iran, requires specific permissions and local knowledge.
With the right paperwork, experienced local guides and a carefully planned itinerary, travel in Turkmenistan can be straightforward and rewarding. Untamed Borders works with local partners to monitor the situation and advise guests on the most practical routes and current restrictions.
For the latest safety information about travelling to Turkmenistan, please email info@untamedborders.com.
Turkmenistan is a Muslim-majority country, but dress expectations are generally shaped by a mix of Islamic tradition, Soviet-era formality and local custom.
Visitors should dress modestly, especially outside hotels, in rural areas, at religious sites and when visiting markets or family homes. Women are not generally expected to wear a headscarf in public, but it is sensible to carry a scarf for mosques, shrines or conservative settings. Loose trousers, long skirts, dresses and tops covering the shoulders are all suitable.
Men should generally wear long trousers, shorts may be acceptable in some hotel or casual settings, but they are not recommended for public settings.
In the desert, practical clothing is important. Loose, lightweight layers help protect against sun, wind and dust. A scarf is useful at Darvaza and in the Karakum Desert, and warm layers are needed for cold desert nights in spring, autumn and winter.
During Ramadan, visitors should be especially respectful around mosques and local communities. If you have any questions about what to wear in Turkmenistan, our specialist team can advise before departure - info@untamedborders.com.
Cash is the most reliable way to pay in Turkmenistan and the local currency is the Turkmenistan manat.
Turkmenistan remains largely cash-based, and travellers should not rely on international bank cards for everyday spending. Some larger hotels and restaurants may accept foreign currency or cards, but this should be treated as the exception rather than the rule.
Travellers should bring clean, undamaged US dollar notes in small denominations for exchange and emergency costs. Euros may sometimes be useful, but US dollars are generally the most practical foreign currency.
Before Untamed Borders trips to Turkmenistan, our specialist team can advise guests on how much cash to bring and will assist guests to get notes changed in the country.
Turkmen is the official language of Turkmenistan. It is a Turkic language, so it belongs to the same broad family as Turkish, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, Kazakh and Kyrgyz languages. More specifically, it is part of the Oghuz branch, making it closer to Turkish and Azerbaijani than to Kazakh or Kyrgyz.
Russian is also widely understood too, particularly among older generations, in cities and in administrative contexts - a legacy of the country’s time in the Soviet Union.
Uzbek is spoken by some communities, particularly near the Uzbekistan border and although English may be spoken in hotels or by guides, the general level of English around the country is poor.
Internet access in Turkmenistan is limited, slow and heavily restricted compared with most countries.
Larger hotels in Ashgabat and some regional cities may offer Wi-Fi, but connections can be unreliable. Many websites and apps are blocked, including some major social media and messaging platforms - such as YouTube, X, Facebook and WhatsApp. Some email services can be difficult to access too and VPNs are illegal and often blocked.
Travellers should download maps, tickets, documents, entertainment and important contact details before arriving. It is also sensible to let family, friends or work contacts know that communication may be limited during the trip.
Do not assume that roaming will work reliably. Local SIM options are limited, and coverage outside major towns can be weak.
Turkmen food is hearty, meat-based and influenced by Central Asian, Persian, Russian and nomadic traditions.
The best-known dish is palaw, the Turkmen version of plov, usually made with rice, carrots, onions and meat. Shashlyk — grilled skewers of meat — is also common, especially in roadside restaurants and local eateries.
Other dishes travellers may encounter include:
Melons are a point of pride in Turkmenistan too, and the country is famous across the region for them. Green tea is widely the drink of choice, and meals are often simple but filling.
Vegetarians can travel in Turkmenistan, but options may be limited outside Ashgabat and larger hotels. It is worth advising the team in advance about dietary requirements.
Islam is the dominant religion in Turkmenistan, and most Turkmen are Sunni Muslim.
Religion in Turkmenistan is often practised in a culturally Turkmen way, shaped by family customs, Sufi traditions, respect for elders and local pilgrimage sites. Islam is important to national identity, but everyday religious observance varies from person to person.
Religion is generally less public than in many Muslim countries, partly a legacy of the Soviet era’s restrictions on religion. The government closely regulates religious institutions, Imams are monitored, mosque activities are supervised, and independent religious groups face significant restrictions. This has shaped how Islam is practiced publicly.
There are also small Christian communities, particularly Russian Orthodox, as well as other minorities and you can find impressive churches dotted around the country.
There are also small communities, particularly in the mountains near Nohur, who although generally being muslim, practice older mountain customs and folk beliefs - which are similar to animist tribes. The most famous example is the Nohur cemetery, where many graves are marked with the horns of mountain goats or wild sheep. These horns are traditionally believed to ward off evil spirits.
Yes, but travellers should be aware that Darvaza is not burning with the same intensity it once did.
In recent years, the Darvaza Gas Crater has begun to emit less flame. The authorities in Turkmenistan have made efforts to control and potentially extinguish the fire, partly for environmental reasons and partly because of the valuable natural gas still beneath the area.
For travellers who have long dreamed of standing beside the Door to Hell in Turkmenistan, time may be running out to see it in its classic fiery form.
Turkmenistan — Paul Brummell
The Bradt guide to Turkmenistan is one of the most useful English-language travel books dedicated specifically to the country. It covers practical travel information, archaeological sites, Silk Road history and cultural context.
The Lost Heart of Asia — Colin Thubron
A classic travel book about post-Soviet Central Asia. Thubron travels through Turkmenistan and the wider region shortly after the collapse of the Soviet Union, capturing a moment of uncertainty and transition.
Shadow of the Silk Road — Colin Thubron
A broader Silk Road journey, useful for understanding the cultural geography of Central Asia and the routes that shaped Turkmenistan’s history.
Central Asia: A New History from the Imperial Conquests to the Present — Adeeb Khalid
A strong modern history of Central Asia, useful for understanding Turkmenistan in its wider regional, Soviet and post-Soviet context.
The Golden Man — Paul Theroux
A long-form piece about Saparmurat Niyazov’s Turkmenistan, useful for understanding the personality cult and some of the stranger political symbolism visitors encounter in Ashgabat.
It is important to note there are tight restrictions on freedom of speech and freedom of the press in Turkmenistan, which means there isn’t a great deal of independent film making or journalism in the country.
Shadow of the Holy Book
A documentary about Saparmurat Niyazov, the Ruhnama and the personality cult that shaped post-independence Turkmenistan. It provides a good understanding of some of the symbolism and political atmosphere of modern Turkmenistan.
National Geographic — Darvaza / Door to Hell features
National Geographic has covered the Darvaza Gas Crater and explorer George Kourounis’ descent into the crater.
