The Central Asian nation of Kazakhstan is the world’s largest landlocked country. Although a considerable proportion of its land is taken up by mostly uninhabited steppe, the outer perimeters of this territory contain all types of environments ranging from the taiga which creeps its way over from the borders of Siberia, extensive rock canyons, impressive glaciated mountains and deserts. Although it’s the most economically dominant of the Central Asian nations, thanks to its wealth of natural resources, the Kazakhs are still firmly rooted to their nomadic beginnings and all the traditions that come with it.
The former capital of Kazakhstan, Almaty is the cultural and financial hub of Central Asia. Wandering the city streets with up-market restaurants, speciality coffee shops and art galleries, it’s easy to forget you’re within a country that maintains a strong interest in its nomadic and traditional heritage. Highlights of the city include watching a show in the Abai State Academic Opera And Ballet Theatre and heading to the nearby mountains at Chimbulak, where a cable car provides excellent access to hiking in the mountains and in winter, ski slopes.
Astana has been the capital of Kazakhstan since 1998. The city is continually undergoing considerable architectural and infrastructural development thanks to the country being a powerful producer of oil and gas. As it is a relatively new city, visiting involves a lot of marvelling at the distinct architecture, such as the Khan Shatyr, a giant tent that can hold 10,000 people, and the New National Museum of Kazakhstan. The Astana Grand Mosque is also the country's largest and a beautiful site to explore.
This is not the most popular destination in Kazakhstan, although perhaps it should, given that not far on the outskirts is the infamous ‘Polygon’. The primary testing venue for all of the Soviet Union’s nuclear weapons, between 1949 and 1989, 456 nuclear tests were conducted outside of Semipalatinsk. Only in 2012 was the waste plutonium finally removed. Despite it once being a politically sensitive region it is possible to visit regions of the Polygon, but you may need a hazmat suit and Geiger counter…
One of the largest lakes in Central Asia, Balkhash is very much overlooked as a destination to visit. Much of the shore surrounding this 605km wide lake is both desolate and sparsely inhabited. It is divided into a western fresh water zone and a deeper eastern salt water, the two meeting at the Uzynaral Strait conveniently near Balkhash City.
This isolated mountain range bordering China to the southeast frames the geographically and historically significant mountain pass, the Dzungarian Gate. This has been used by countless marauding invaders to and from China and Central Asia. Whilst access to the Jungar region can be tricky at times, due to minor and rarely reported skirmishes between Kazakh and Chinese border patrols, the mountains offer unspoilt trekking and rarely touched summits.
There’s not a single name for this region in local languages that doesn’t sound intimidating; the Hungry Steppe, the Steppe of Misfortune and the Starving Steppe. All are accurate descriptions for this totally obscure desert region due west of Lake Balkhash. There’s only ever been one recorded full crossing of its entirety, which was completed by an eccentric Englishman in 2014. The other things you’ll find out here are abandoned Soviet military testing sites, discarded nose cones of rockets and secret bunkers. There is quite literally nothing else to do except go hungry and get yourself in to trouble if you’re not careful. But it’s precisely this extreme isolation and unforgiving environment that makes it worth a visit… if you know what you’re doing.
The Baikonur was the world’s first and largest operational space launch facility. It was from here that Yuri Gagarin launched to become the first human in outer space (excluding the much-forgotten Lost Cosmonauts and the occasional monkey). A monument for all those who appreciate the space age.
Created as a national park in 1996 this region of giant sand dunes inhabits an area of 4,600 square kilometres between the Ak-Tau mountains and Ili River. It’s most famous for a large sand dune which sings when the wind blows or it’s walked upon (due to it the combination of right grain size, humidity and silica content). Aside from Altyn-Emel’s unusual musical charm, the Katutau volcanic mountains and Aktau canyon are also worth visiting in the area.
Isolated in the Kazakh desert in the south of the country, Turkistan is great base for exploring the ancient ruined cities of Otrar and Sauron as well as learning more about the nomadic life of the area. The city boasts the 14th-century mausoleum of Kozha Akhmed Yasaui, built by Timur to honour the Sufi Sheikh. An impressive and important monument in its own right it embodies the history of religion, conquest and art in the region.
Mangystau in Western Kazakhstan is one of the most sparsely populated parts of Central Asia and borders the Caspian Sea. It's famed for it's other worldly rock formations, vast salt plains, deserts and canyons. Parts of the region could be mistaken for being on another planet all together. The coastal city of Aktau is the main gateway to the region and often a launch-pad for overlanders travelling to and from Caucasus.
Kazakhstan has a relatively straightforward visa policy for many international visitors.
The country offers visa free entry for up to 30 days for tourism or business purposes for many different nationalities, including British, US, Canadian, Australian and many EU citizens.
Multiple visa-free visits are also permitted, but it’s on a country by country basis. For example British nationals must not spend more than 90 days in Kazakhstan within any 180-day period, unless they get a separate visa.
Travellers who do require a visa may be eligible to apply through Kazakhstan's electronic visa system.
Hotels and other accommodation providers are responsible for notifying the Kazakh authorities of a foreign guest's arrival. If staying privately, the person hosting you must normally register your arrival within three working days.
To find out the entry requirements for your nationality, please contact the Untamed Borders team on - info@untamedborders.com.
Yes. Kazakhstan can be travelled independently and there is no general requirement for foreign tourists to join a tour or travel with a guide.
The country's main cities – particularly Almaty, Astana and Shymkent – are relatively easy to navigate independently.
Kazakhstan also has an extensive rail network, domestic flights, long-distance buses, taxis and car hire, making independent travel between the major population centres straightforward.
However, Kazakhstan is enormous – the ninth-largest country in the world – and some of its most spectacular landscapes are extremely remote. Journeys into areas such as the Mangystau Desert, Ustyurt Plateau, Altai Mountains or remote sections of the Tian Shan require considerably more planning.
Roads can be rough, fuel and water can be scarce and mobile phone coverage may disappear entirely. The country also experiences extreme swings in its climate, from very harsh winters where temperatures can drop to -20 degrees celsius and often more - to the summer highs of above 40 degrees celsius.
In the more remote parts of the country, such as Mangystau, you may be a long way from support and resupply points - with distances between petrol stations, medical facilities, water and food sources vast. Untamed Borders organises group trips to Mangystau.
If you plan to head out of the major urban areas and into the more remote parts of the country, then travelling with an experienced tour operator is advised.
There are also several restricted areas where prior extra permission is required, including the space-launch sites at Baikonur and certain districts and settlements elsewhere in the country. Untamed Borders can organise trips to Baikonur and will assist guests with the extra documentation needed.
If you want to travel to these more unusual parts of the country it’s advised to travel with experienced support and this is something Untamed Borders can assist with.
There is no single best time to visit Kazakhstan because the country is enormous and has an extremely continental climate, with very cold winters and hot summers. Conditions also vary dramatically between the northern steppe, the mountains around Almaty, the southern cities and the deserts of western Kazakhstan.
For general sightseeing and outdoor travel, spring and autumn are often the most comfortable periods, while summer is excellent for mountain trekking and winter opens up opportunities for skiing and other snow-based activities.
As with much of Central Asia, summers are long and hot and winters are long and cold. Spring and Autumn come and go in the blink of an eye.
The best time to visit Kazakhstan very much depends on what you want to do and see in the country.
November to February – Winter
Winter in Kazakhstan can be extremely cold, particularly across the north and centre of the country.
The government's climatic data puts the average January temperature at around -18.7°C in northern Kazakhstan, compared with approximately -1.5°C in the south, although considerably colder spells are possible.
Astana is particularly famous for its severe winters, with snow, ice and powerful winds creating challenging conditions. Road travel can also be disrupted by snowstorms and poor visibility.
However, winter has its attractions. The mountains around Almaty receive substantial snowfall, making this the main ski season at resorts such as Shymbulak. Snow-covered landscapes can also give the steppe and mountains a completely different character.
For travellers whose main interest is desert exploration or long overland journeys, however, winter is generally not the easiest time to visit.
March to May - Spring
Spring is one of the most interesting times to visit Kazakhstan, although conditions can be unpredictable.
March can still feel distinctly wintry, especially in Astana, northern Kazakhstan and the mountains. Further south, temperatures begin warming much earlier and the landscape starts turning green.
By April, conditions across much of southern and western Kazakhstan are generally much more pleasant - with wild flowers blossoming in the mountains around Almaty.
This time of year is also an excellent period for exploring desert and semi-desert areas of Kazakhstan, before the extreme heat of summer arrives. However, earlier in the Spring the area can still suffer from particularly cold spells.
May can be a fantastic time to visit much of Kazakhstan. Large parts of the country enjoys warmth, to varying degrees and many of the hilly/mountain areas are clearing of snow (apart from the very high peaks).
In the cities the temperature in May is manageable and particularly in Almaty the extensive cafe and bar culture takes to the city’s pavements.
May is also a good time to visit the desert regions, before the serious heat of the summer arrives. Deserts can get cold at night earlier in the summer, but less so in May. This is why Untamed Borders organises its group trips to Mangystau towards the tail end of May.
It will still be hot, but not completely oppressive like later in the summer.
May to September - Summer
Summer is the main season for mountain trekking, camping and outdoor travel in Kazakhstan.
May and June can be particularly attractive, with warmer temperatures, long daylight hours and greener landscapes. In the mountains around Almaty and eastern Kazakhstan, summer provides access to hiking areas that may be inaccessible because of snow during much of the rest of the year.
July and August are the hottest months. The official average July temperature is around 18.8°C in northern Kazakhstan and 28.8°C in the south, but daytime temperatures in southern and western desert regions can climb considerably higher.
This means that while July and August are excellent for the Tian Shan and Altai Mountains, they can be very hot for exploring exposed desert landscapes around Mangystau, Turkistan or southern Kazakhstan.
September is often one of the best months of the entire year. Mountain trekking remains possible, temperatures begin to fall and desert travel becomes more comfortable. It is an especially good compromise for travellers combining cities, mountains and remote landscapes.
Anyone trekking at high altitude should remember that snow is possible even during summer, and mountain weather can change extremely quickly.
October & November - Autumn
October is another excellent month for visiting Kazakhstan, particularly during the first half of the month.
Temperatures are generally cooler and more comfortable for exploring the steppe, deserts and archaeological sites, while autumn colours can be particularly attractive in the mountains and forests of eastern and southeastern Kazakhstan.
Western Kazakhstan, including Mangystau and the Ustyurt Plateau, can also be very pleasant at this time because the intense summer heat has passed.
However, winter arrives early in northern and high-altitude areas. By late October, snow and freezing temperatures are increasingly possible, and mountain routes may begin becoming difficult or inaccessible.
Kazakhstan has good international air connections, with Almaty and Astana acting as the country's principal international gateways.
Many airlines serve the country, with Air Astana offering direct flights to major European capitals and air hubs throughout the Gulf, Turkey and Asia.
The airport in the far western city of Aktau also has international connections, particularly to Turkey and countries in the Caucasus. .
Kazakhstan is a vast nation, with long travel times between major cities and attractions, so domestic flights are particularly useful. A journey that takes several days by road or rail can often be covered in a few hours by air.
Overland Travel to Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan shares land borders with Russia, China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, making it an important part of many longer Central Asian overland journeys. Kazakhstan officially lists more than 100 border checkpoints, including road and railway crossings.
For travellers exploring Central Asia, the easiest overland connections are usually with Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. Road and rail routes connect Kazakhstan with both countries, allowing trips to be combined relatively easily.
One of the busiest and most commonly used routes for travellers is the Korday (Kazakhstan) – Ak-Zhol (Kyrgyzstan) crossing, which has a major road linking Almaty with the Kyrgyz capital - Bishkek. Another popular route is the Zhibek Zholy (Kazakhstan) – Gisht Kuprik (Uzbekistan) crossing, which many travellers use to travel between the Kazakh city of Shymkent with the Uzbek capital - Tashkent.
Crossing between Kazakhstan and China is also possible through designated international border crossings, although procedures and transport arrangements can be more complicated. The Turkmenistan border can also be crossed too. .
Kazakhstan has a huge border with Russia and crossings exist by both road and rail, throughout much of the border’s length. However, certain crossings can be subject to closures at short notice.The Untamed Borders team can advise guests, when they’re planning their trip.
There is also an unusual Caspian Sea route between Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan. Ferries operate from the Kazakh coast, particularly Kuryk, towards Alat near Baku. These are primarily freight services, rather than conventional scheduled passenger ferries, but it is possible to catch the service as a traveller too. Due to the primary service operating for freight, departures can be unpredictable and travellers may have to wait a number of days for a vessel.
Kazakhstan is generally a relatively straightforward country to travel through, although normal precautions should be taken.
For adventurous travellers, Kazakhstan's geography can present a greater risk, rather than crime or insecurity. The country contains huge expanses of sparsely populated steppe, desert and mountains. Mobile coverage can disappear, medical assistance may be far away and extreme weather can rapidly create tricky conditions.
Travelling with an experienced tour operator, who understands the landscape and who has appropriate vehicles and supplies for long journeys, in remote locations, can be helpful.
Mountain areas also present risks - particularly from avalanches, rockfalls, landslides and sudden weather changes. Kazakhstan is also seismically active, with Almaty located in an earthquake-prone zone.
Travellers should also be cautious when photographing military installations, border areas, airports and certain government facilities, as photography restrictions can apply even when warning signs are not obvious.
Kazakhstan is a secular country and there is no strict dress code for visitors.
In Almaty, Astana and other large cities, the clothing worn is generally similar to that found elsewhere in Europe. T-shirts, shorts and normal summer clothing are widely seen during hot weather.
More modest clothing is appropriate when entering mosques, churches and other religious sites though. Kazakhstan has a Muslim majority, but it is considerably less socially conservative than many predominantly Muslim countries.
Climate is a much bigger consideration than cultural restrictions. In summer, lightweight clothing, sun protection and a hat are useful, particularly in the south and west.
Anyone visiting in winter needs serious cold-weather clothing, especially in Astana and northern Kazakhstan, where temperatures can fall far below freezing.
For trekking in the Tian Shan, Altai or other mountainous areas, bring proper layers and waterproof clothing even in summer. Weather changes rapidly at altitude and snowfall can occur during the summer months.
Kazakhstan's currency is the Kazakhstani tenge (KZT). However, the country has a highly developed cashless payment system now, particularly in its cities.
Debit and credit cards are widely used in hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, shops and cafés, and electronic and QR-code payments have become extremely common.
International Visa and Mastercard cards are accepted by many businesses and ATMs are widely available in major towns and cities.
However, travellers should still carry some cash, especially when visiting rural settlements, markets or remote parts of the country. Many locally popular QR payment systems are connected to Kazakh banking apps and may not be available to short-term foreign visitors.
Money should only be exchanged at banks or authorised exchange offices.The Untamed Borders team can assist guests to change money into Kazakhstani tenge, when in larger cities.
Kazakh is the state language of Kazakhstan, while Russian is also extremely widely spoken and plays a major role in everyday life, business and communication between different ethnic communities.
In practice, travellers will encounter both languages. Kazakh is increasingly prominent on signs and in government communication, while Russian remains particularly useful in cities and when travelling around the country.
English is increasingly spoken among younger people and those working in tourism, particularly in Almaty and Astana, but it should not be assumed that everyone will speak English.
Outside the major cities, knowing a few words of Kazakh or Russian – or having an offline translation app – can be extremely useful.
Kazakhstan is also ethnically diverse, and languages including Uzbek, Uyghur, Ukrainian, Tatar and others are spoken within different communities. The country's national census records extensive linguistic and ethnic diversity.
Internet access is generally good in Kazakhstan's cities and larger towns. Almaty, Astana and other major urban centres have widespread mobile data coverage, Wi-Fi and fast home and business internet. Mobile data is also available across much of the country's populated road and rail network.
However, Kazakhstan is vast and extremely sparsely populated in many areas. In the mountains, desert and remote steppe, mobile coverage can become weak or disappear completely.
Travellers heading into places such as Mangystau, Ustyurt or remote mountain regions should therefore download maps and essential documents in advance and should not rely entirely on having a mobile connection.
Traditional Kazakh food reflects the country's nomadic pastoral heritage, with meat, dairy products and filling wheat-based foods playing an important role.
Probably the country's best-known dish is beshbarmak, traditionally made with boiled meat served over broad sheets of pasta or noodles. Lamb, beef and horse meat are all commonly used in traditional cuisine.
Other foods to look out for include:
Kazakhstan's food scene extends far beyond traditional Kazakh cuisine. The country's history and ethnic diversity mean that Russian, Uzbek, Uyghur, Korean, Georgian and other Central Asian and former Soviet cuisines are widely available, particularly in the major cities.
Expect excellent plov, lagman noodles, shashlik, dumplings, soups, breads and salads alongside more specifically Kazakh dishes. Almaty also has a large Korean community and you can find many tasty Korean restaurants in the city.
Vegetarian and vegan food is becoming increasingly easy to find in Almaty and Astana, although options can be more limited in rural areas where traditional meals remain heavily meat-based.
Alcohol is also widely available throughout the country, with beer and vodka being particularly popular.
Kazakhstan is officially a secular state, but religion remains an important part of the country's cultural identity.
The largest religion is Sunni Islam, traditionally practised among Kazakhs as well as the country's Uzbek, Uyghur and Tatar communities. Russian Orthodox Christianity is the second major religious tradition and is particularly associated with Kazakhstan's Russian and other Slavic communities.
According to Kazakhstan's 2021 census, around 69% of the population identified as Muslim, while Christianity represented the other major religious affiliation.
Visitors will find both mosques and Orthodox churches throughout the country. Kazakhstan's religious culture is generally relatively moderate.
Visitors should nevertheless dress respectfully when visiting religious buildings and be mindful of religious customs during periods such as Ramadan.
The Silent Steppe: The Story of a Kazakh Nomad Under Stalin — Mukhamet Shayakhmetov
One of the most valuable books for understanding Kazakhstan's turbulent 20th century. Shayakhmetov recounts his childhood in a traditional Kazakh pastoral community and the devastating transformation of steppe society under Stalin, including collectivisation, famine and Sovietisation.
Apples Are from Kazakhstan: The Land That Disappeared — Christopher Robbins
An accessible combination of travel writing, history and reportage. Robbins journeys across Kazakhstan exploring everything from nomadic culture and the Aral Sea to Soviet history, nuclear testing and the country's emergence after independence. It is one of the easiest general introductions to Kazakhstan for travellers.
The Nomads — Ilyas Yesenberlin
A celebrated trilogy of historical novels tracing the rise of the Kazakh Khanate and the struggles of the Kazakh steppe. It offers a much deeper introduction to the historical figures, tribal alliances and conflicts that helped form Kazakh identity.
The Book of Words — Abai Kunanbayev
A collection of philosophical observations by Kazakhstan's most famous poet and intellectual. Abai reflects on education, morality, society, religion and Kazakh culture in the 19th century. His influence on modern Kazakh identity is enormous.
The Hungry Steppe: Famine, Violence and the Making of Soviet Kazakhstan — Sarah Cameron
A more academic but extremely important account of the catastrophic famine caused by Stalinist collectivisation and forced settlement policies in Kazakhstan during the early 1930s. Particularly valuable for understanding the country's Soviet history and the destruction of traditional nomadic society.
Tulpan — Sergei Dvortsevoy
One of the best films for getting a feel for life on the Kazakh steppe. The story follows a young man who returns from naval service hoping to become a shepherd and start a family. Shot among real herding communities, the film combines humour and drama with extraordinary images of the open steppe. It won the Un Certain Regard prize at Cannes in 2008.
Nomad: The Warrior
A large-scale historical epic set during the 18th-century struggles between the Kazakhs and Dzungars. The story is a fictionalised account centred on the future Ablai Khan, one of the most important figures in Kazakh history. It is dramatic rather than strictly historical, but provides an accessible introduction to the imagery and legends surrounding Kazakhstan's nomadic past.
Kelin
A striking Kazakh historical drama set in a remote mountain community. The film contains virtually no spoken dialogue and instead tells its story visually, using the landscape, traditional customs and family relationships to explore life in an isolated pre-modern society.
The Road — Darezhan Omirbayev
A slower and more artistic example of modern Kazakh cinema, following a filmmaker travelling across Kazakhstan to see his dying mother. It offers a very different portrait of the country from historical epics and conventional travel documentaries.
Where the Wind Blew
A documentary exploring the legacy of nuclear weapons testing and the relationship between communities affected by nuclear testing in Kazakhstan and the United States. It provides useful background to the Semipalatinsk nuclear test site, one of the darker and more important chapters of Soviet Kazakhstan's history.
